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Resolving Litter Box Issues When your cat stops using the litter box it’s frustrating and stressful for both cat and cat parent. It’s also, sadly, one of the most common reasons that a cat may get a one-way ticket to the nearest shelter. There are many reasons why a cat may avoid the litter box and it’s important to figure out the true cause in order to get everything back on track. Inappropriate elimination shouldn’t be a deal-breaker when it comes to whether kitty gets to stay in your family or not. While some reasons for litter box aversion may be more complex, there are often some simple mistakes cat parents make. If you’re a new cat parent it’s especially easy to make some simple errors that may not seem important at the time but those mistakes can have a big effect on how your cat views his toileting set-up. Here’s a list of some common reasons for litter box avoidance.
Underlying Medical Issue for the Cat’s BehaviorThe first step for any litter box problem is to consult your vet. Don’t assume a problem is behavioral without getting your cat checked by the veterinarian in order to rule out any medical cause. It’s common for a cat experiencing discomfort upon elimination to associate the box with the pain. It may also be that your cat can’t make it to the box in time due to discomfort. Some medical issues that could be causing this behavior are:
Water is always a critical factor. Increase your cats water intake by feeding canned food can reduce the formation of crystals in the bladder. For behavioral issues, your vet can also prescribe drug therapy such as Prozac.
An Unclean Litter Box The litter box “experience” is almost always a reason for cats peeing outside of the box—even when a medical issue is present. Cats are very clean animals and if the box is too dirty they will seek other arrangements. Scoop the litter box at least twice a day and completely wash out the box monthly. If you’re not using scoopable litter then wash out the box on a weekly basis. Keep in mind that the feline sense of smell is much stronger than ours, so a box that seems “clean enough” to you might still smell disgusting to your cat. This is especially true in multiple cat households. Smelling your own waste is one thing, being forced into close proximity to someone else’s is an entirely different problem.
Wrong Location for the Litter BoxLocation choice should be about convenience and security for the cat and not about what is convenient for the cat parent. Don’t put the litter box near the food , in a damp basement, in a closet or near household appliances that may frighten the cat (such as the washing machine). In a multi-cat household, scatter boxes around the home and don’t have them lined up in one room. You don’t want a cat developing a litter box aversion problem because he’s afraid to cross the path of another cat in order to get into the one room where all the boxes are located. Place a box in each cat’s preferred area. Litter boxes are always about location, location, location. The placement of the box could cause your cat to “go” elsewhere. A box that is in a basement can be a problem for an older cat that has trouble with stairs or her eyesight. The box should be in a relatively active area of the house. While pet parents often don’t want a litter box in the living room, removing it too far from social areas may make the box hard to find or unappealing to your cat. Generally you want litter boxes that are out of traffic but not at the end of a scary, trappable tunnel. Along the same lines, litter boxes that are next to machines that make loud noises or odd vibrations—such as the spin cycle of the washing machine—can be a “no go zone” for cats. Try placing the box in a nearby hallway, bathroom, or office with easy access to a garbage can. The proper litter box set up will offer your cat privacy and peace and quiet, but still be easy for your cat to find.
The Type of Litter Pet parents have a variety of litters to choose from, but not every type of litter will work for every cat. Some clay litters, or litters made from corncobs or recycled newspaper may not “feel good on the foot.” Kittens learn what type of litter they prefer from their mothers at about three weeks old. So using a different litter than the one that was used when your cat was a kitten, or deciding to switch the type of litter your cat is used to, could be at the root of litter problems. Pet parents may have to try a few different types of litters to find the one that works best for their cats. In general, cats like an unscented, sand-like substrate. They like the soft feel on their paws and the sand-like litter makes it easy for digging and covering. Cats also don’t want to smell all the flowery, perfumed litters. Keep in mind how close your cat’s nose will be to the litter when he’s in the box. Texture is also important when it comes to litter. There are so many litters on the market that are created to appeal to the convenience of the cat parent but in many cases they are just a litter box problem waiting to happen. While some cats may prefer the texture of an alternative litter, most prefer an unscented, soft, scoopable litter. Experiment with several different types of litters to see which your cat likes best.
Multiple Pets in the Home Peeing outside the litter box happens more frequently in a household with multiple cats, particularly if one is a bully who prevents another cat from getting to the box. To address this, always have multiple litter boxes in your home and place them in multiple rooms. If you have a timid cat in your home, be sure to devote a space and a litter box to her that other cats cannot access easily. Lund says you may also want to avoid covered litter boxes if you have multiple cats. Covered boxes may make some cats uneasy because they can’t see if another cat is coming.
Stress and Anxiety Stress is a huge component for cats. Things like moving, house renovations, a new baby, new spouse, new animals etc can be huge stressors for a cat. Anything that changes a cat’s feeling of wellbeing can create a change in behavior, and in cats that means litter box habit changes. Cats are creatures of habit who don’t adjust well to abrupt changes or chaotic environments. A litter box avoidance problem may be the result of your cat being too fearful to even peek his head out from under the bed. Address multicat tension issues and/or environmental factors in order to provide your cat a sense of security and safety in his own territory. Outdoor cats lingering in your yard may also cause stress for your cat—who might choose to pee near the front door as a possible response. Cats use a special type of urinary behavior (spraying) to mark their territories, which they will do more when they feel stressed. An anxious cat might pee elsewhere as a way to relieve her anxiety because the smell of her own urine makes her feel safer. Some of your cats behavior issues may stem from “indoor cat boredom.” Try “play therapy” by giving your cat mental and physical exercise through playing with his favorite toy, such as a laser pointer or a feather toy. In addition, you can add puzzle toys for her dry food. Also consider Feliway, a synthetic facial pheromone that helps de-stress cats. It comes in a plug-in or spray (note the spray works excellent at sites you don’t want her to scratch).
DeclawingCats who are declawed may continue to feel pain long after the healing period. Some cats’ paws remain sensitive for the rest of their lives and the texture of the litter may be too uncomfortable for them. There are so many reasons not to declaw your cat and this is just one of them
A Covered Litter BoxYou may think a covered box is a good idea because it gives the cat some privacy and also confines the litter odor inside the box. The truth is, a covered box isn’t cat-friendly. A covered box often makes the cat feel confined. The covered box makes it more inconvenient for you to scoop on a regular basis (out of sight…out of mind). They also create more odor because air doesn’t get in there to dry the soiled litter. The biggest concern though is that it prevents the cat from having escape potential. In a multi-cat household or in a household with children, this can be a crucial issue because a cat may avoid the box if he feels he’ll get ambushed while in there.
Wrong Sized Litter BoxDon’t choose a litter box size based on where it conveniently will fit in a location. Choose a box based on the size of your cat. The box should be about 1 ½ times the length of your cat. If the litter box is too cramped, they may be reluctant to use it. Additionally, a litter box with sides that are too high can make a cat reluctant to use it.
Not Enough Litter BoxesIn multi-cat homes you should have the same number of litter boxes as you have cats. If there’s a litter box issue, then you also need one extra box. If you live with just one cat but you have a home with more than one level then there should be a box on each level.
Litter Box LinersLitter box liners are created for the convenience of the cat parent but they often tear from the cat’s claws. It’s also easy for urine to form pools in the folds of the plastic and that creates an odor problem. Since cats are very tactile you also have to keep in mind how the plastic may create discomfort when a cat is trying to dig and cover his waste.
Amount of Litter in the BoxExperiment with the depth of the litter. In my experience, lots of cats like less litter and we humans tend to like more, which often creates a kind of “quick sand” experience for the cat. On the other hand, some cats prefer a large amount of litter. If you don’t want to create an odor problem, put an adequate amount of litter in the box and keep the level consistent. In general, about 3 inches of litter is a good amount. As you scoop, periodically top off the litter with a bit more to keep a consistent amount. Put less litter in one box and more litter in the other and see which one the cat prefers.
Going High-Tech with the Litter BoxElectronic self-cleaning boxes have many downsides. Many of them have motors that are frightening. Some are so big but the actual surface area for the cat is too small. Many self-cleaning boxes have covers as well. Even though some of these boxes are timed to not activate the cleaning until 10 minutes after the cat has left the box it doesn’t account for another cat entering. Some rakes in the boxes easily clog when there’s a large clump due to diarrhea. The other important downside to a self-cleaning box is that you are prevented from monitoring what is or isn’t happening in the litter box. When you clean the box it’s an opportunity to check on your cat’s health. It’s during cleaning time that you may notice constipation, diarrhea, a larger-than-normal urine clump or no urine clump at all.
Strong Cleansers for Cleaning Litter BoxesStrong-smelling household cleansers may leave enough of a strong scent on the plastic box that it drives the cat away. When you clean the box use bleach that is heavily diluted in hot water or you can even use dish soap that is very diluted. When you’re done cleaning you don’t want to have any traces of scent on the plastic. To give you an idea of how sensitive a cat’s nose is, he has 67 million scent receptors compared to the 5 million that humans have.
Litter Scatter MatsThese mats are designed to catch the litter that gets trapped on the cat’s paws as he exits the litter box. Some mats may have a texture that cats find uncomfortable.
Punishing Your CatIt is important to know that a cat may avoid the box because he has been punished for eliminating in other locations. When you punish a cat for peeing or pooping outside of the box, the messages he receives are 1) he should be afraid of you, and 2) peeing and pooping will get him in trouble. Even though you think you’re teaching him that his location choice is what you objected to, the message he got was to avoid peeing and pooping when you’re around. Punishment also means you are assuming the cat is misbehaving and in reality, he isn’t. If a cat isn’t using his litter box it’s because he feels he can’t. Your job is to figure out why. Punishment is inhumane and counter-productive. |
